ZR468 wrote:Another question, does the connector to the neutral switch just pull straight out? Friction fit? Or is there a trick to unplug it?
I tried to pull the connector out, but it spins around, not firm like I thought it should. I was going to test the continuity before replacing the switch. See attached picture, it is the green wire.
Just grab the connector and with a few wiggles pull straight back. It's just a 'sleeve' type connector that slides onto a 'post' on the switch.
To test the switch just earth out the connecting wire to the frame or engine using a bit of wire. The principal reason the switch fails is because the inside spring loaded brass contact has worn down, and is no longer making contact with the end of the gear change drum. It's in permanent contact with the rotating gear change drum. It's a mechanical failure due to the wearing away of the contact as the gear change drum rotates as you change gears, not an electrical fault.
It'll test just fine out of the bike but won't work when you screw it in because the internal connector has worn down and is now not long enough.
Last edited by Freddy on 20 Apr 2018, 07:34, edited 2 times in total.
Bought a new neutral switch. Pull the wire out and test for continuity, no light. Replaced the switch and gasket anyways, since I can't return it. The old switch was not that worn, saved it for the future. Btw, no oil gushed out.
Tapping on the green lens on the dish, the neutral light comes back on intermittently. Must be the bulb or a wire under the dish. Will go back to the Kawasaki manual and figure out how to get at it.
Nothing is simple.
Kenny
Finally got around to replacing my neutral switch. Easy job. It's working perfectly now. You were right, Freddy, the brass part of the old one was quite worn. Thanks!
1990 Zephyr 550 B1 (Phoebe) Factory Pro Stage 1 jet kit
Kerker stainless steel race exhaust with 1.5" competition baffle
zx550 cams
Progressive fork springs with adjustable preloaders
Nitron stealth rear shocks
58 rwhp (stock is ~46)
...