Neutral switch

[Zaddict]

Looks like my neutral switch is acting up. Sometimes the light comes on, sometimes it doesn't. When the light isn't on the bike won't start without clutch. Would a bad bulb prevent that circuit from closing? In other words, should I try replacing the bulb or does the fact that the engine won't start without clutch when the light isn't on mean the problem is upstream of the indicator lights?

[Freddy]

Looks like my neutral switch is acting up. Sometimes the light comes on, sometimes it doesn't. When the light isn't on the bike won't start without clutch. Would a bad bulb prevent that circuit from closing? In other words, should I try replacing the bulb or does the fact that the engine won't start without clutch when the light isn't on mean the problem is upstream of the indicator lights?

The most common cause of the neutral light not coming on (at least in a 750) is a faulty neutral light switch. On a 750 its located in the gear cover behind the chain cover, so I assume the same on a 550. Very simple job to replace.

It goes faulty because the spring loaded brass end of the switch wears over time, and once it wears to a certain length it can no longer make electrical contact with the end of the gear selector rod.

[Zaddict]

Thanks Freddy. Went ahead and ordered a new switch (they're cheap). Hopefully that's all it is.

[Freddy]

No special procedure to remove the old switch and fit the new. Just screw out the old switch, in any gear, and screw in the new. Nothing to line up etc.

It's remarkably simple how the switch works. On the end of the gear selector shaft is a piece of very thin insulator material with a slot cut in it. The tip of the neutral switch runs on this material. Obviously the slot is positioned so that when in neutral the tip of the switch makes contact with the metal gear selector, and completes the circuit to earth. In any other position the tip of the switch is running on the insulator material, so the circuit is open.

The tip of the switch is in constant contact with the gear selector rod, and its back and forward movement as you change gears slowly wears away the spring loaded brass tip of the switch till it no longer makes contact.

[Shedman]

My neutral light was playing up, the light would come on when I was riding the bike. It turned out that there was a slight nick in the wire to the switch and as I was riding the bare part would come into contact with the engine casing. A bit of heatshrink tube fixed it.

[hugojose]

My neutral light was playing up, the light would come on when I was riding the bike. It turned out that there was a slight nick in the wire to the switch and as I was riding the bare part would come into contact with the engine casing. A bit of heatshrink tube fixed it.

Yes, this happened to me once. . ..in my case it happened because when reinstalling the left cover, it is very easy to bite on the dangling wire, pinching it if not careful. Fixed with electrical tape.

[ZR468]

I think my neutrual switch is gone. When I undo the switch, does oil come gushing out?

[Freddy]

I think my neutrual switch is gone. When I undo the switch, does oil come gushing out?

No.

[Richard]

Or at least it shouldn't
(sorry couldn't resist)

[ZR468]

Another question, does the connector to the neutral switch just pull straight out like a spark plug capt? Friction fit? Or is there a trick to unplug it?
I tried to pull the connector out, but it spins around, not firm like I thought it should. I was going to test the continuity before replacing the switch. See attached picture, it is the green wire. Thanks, you guys have been truly helpful.