750 cam chain adjuster

[David Richard]

hi happy new year to you all ,sorry to touch on this subject but my question is on the main bolt in the body does it get any oil from the motor even if it just drabs of oil that find its way into it and back into the wedge part , i have only taken a couple apart before and i know they dont move much is it worth putting some cv joint greece in there thanks david

[Freddy]

hi happy new year to you all ,sorry to touch on this subject but my question is on the main bolt in the body does it get any oil from the motor even if it just drabs of oil that find its way into it and back into the wedge part , i have only taken a couple apart before and i know they dont move much is it worth putting some cv joint greece in there thanks david

I think its reasonable to assume plenty of oil gets flung back into the tensioner body from the cam chain moving past it. You can end up with quite a significant oil drip from the tensioner body if the 2 bolts that secure the tensioner become loose due to the gasket compressing.

[hugojose]

It is only two bolts and a gasket. If tightening (a bit, is aluminum) does not do it, you may consider replacing the gasket. Pay attention one bolt is longer, and has a washer. Am assuming is not leaking from the big cross wedge cap only finding its way there. Because there is very little room is a little slow and tricky removing and installing because one is working against a spring.

I have a manual one and it came originally with clumsy countersunk phillip bolts with small key. I could never get it tight to seal and was seeping at the base. I replaced them with hex bolts, similar to stock, and could tightened them properly and leak disappeared..

Have a manual one, not because I ever had any problem with the stock, but because makes it a breeze valve clearance adjusments, reaching carb #3 from the bottom, and makes maintenance a lot easier.

[David Richard]

hi thankyou both for the info on the above i was thinking ahead for a job to do ,david

[Freddy]

hi thankyou both for the info on the above i was thinking ahead for a job to do ,david

What's the actual problem?

I'm a believer the original tensioner can't be made to work correctly if the engine is worked hard. I say this after buying the bike to first discover a previous owner had fitted a set screw in the end to increase the spring tension, I then completely replaced ALL the internals with genuine new parts, and about ten times after than pulling the wedges out and removing any surface imperfections.

That Kawasaki completely replaced the design on the ZR-7 (same basic engine) again indicates a recognized problem. Otherwise they wouldn't have changed it.

[David Richard]

hi freddy yes the reason for my question was i have noticed that the wedge ends of bolts do ware .on a old spare engine i have with 48 k on it compared to my d1 with 21k on which i changed last year to a manual one the ware is less ,its obvious they do chatter together .back in october i got a d1 with 3k on it ,i wrote about the end cap had a grub screw in the end so as to push the small spring harder,like yours was by the the sound of it ,the bike is very quiet and its parked up at the moment i will change the end cap i and give it a chance to see how it performs yes its noted they changed the design on latter engines,apart from these backing off when reved hard so im told i can only imagine how hard all of the blades are inside the motor which will only add to unwanted noise i guess one day it will have to come apart despite the millage ,thanks david