Thanks for the heads-up on the resistor in the ignition switch. Was useful to know it was there trying to diagnose why a few things weren't working after I fitted the new switch. The old switch has the resistor, and while I didn't pull the back of the new one the resistance of the 'grey wire' which comes through the resistor is identical one the new one. The switch when 'on' has a red wire that puts out 12 volts, and a gray wire that puts out 10.5 volts due to the resistor.Shedman wrote:Freddy, there are two types of aftermarket ignition switch readily available on ebay here in the UK, about £35 each. One has a resistor and one doesn't, my original C1 ignition switch has a resistor, easily visible if you pop off the bottom plastic cap that covers the electrics.
It seems obvious to figure all the lights and relays etc run off the 12 volt circuit, and the only thing that you might want a lower voltage for some reason is the ECU, so I assume that's where the gray wire goes. That would also explain why a lower voltage switch in a bike with a 12 volt ECU wouldn't fire.
P.S. When I couldn't get things to work, and was wondering if it was the new switch, decided to pull the old one apart and see if I could get it working. Though nothing to loose if bits fly everywhere or it is new impossible to reassemble. It's surprisingly simply to pull apart and cleaning the obviously burn contact had it working 90% of the time. The problem contact was quite pitted even when cleaned up. Actually just occurred to me typing this, it might have been possible to have pulled the switch out of the new one and fit it to the old lock so no need for 2 keys. However not going back to pull it apart again to see if its possible.