750 D ignition switch

[Freddy]

The ignition switch on my 1996 750 D1 has decided to quit (half quit, it still works if you turn it back from the 'park light' position). The part number is 27005-5104. This is available in the USA at Partzilla as it was used on some other post 1993 models, but they aren't doing international orders at present. No where else in the world seems to have it. It has been used on 750's and 1100's since around 1994.

Prior to that part number 27005-5093 was used on both the 750's and 1100's. There is no indication that the different part number used after 1993 was a replacement to the earlier part number. They show as two different parts, basically pre 1993 and post 1993. They seemingly look the same from pictures, other than the earlier ignition lock is stamped "KM-2" near where the key goes in, and the latter one is stamped "KM-5".

Does anyone have any insight as to the difference, and are they inter-changable? I've bought one, had no other choice but to make it work, but just curious what if any difficulties I might have.

Thanks,

[hugojose]

The model I own is '91 750 and is a KM-2. Have another ignition lock lying in my garage bought in e-bay and is also a KM-2. As far as I know the Kawasaki KM designation is for the key blank type, ..locksmiths seem to be interested in that.......and does not have anything to do with mounting. But am not an expert on ignition keys as never had any problems.

If this help.

[Freddy]

The model I own is '91 750 and is a KM-2. Have another ignition lock lying in my garage bought in e-bay and is also a KM-2. As far as I know the Kawasaki KM designation is for the key blank type, ..locksmiths seem to be interested in that.......and does not have anything to do with mounting. But am not an expert on ignition keys as never had any problems.

If this help.

Hi HJ,
Hope the key type is the only difference. I wouldn't bother to get the key matched to the tank and helmet lock even if the KM-5 ignition switch was easily obtained, happy to live with different keys on a key ring, so hope its nothing else other than that.

Regards,
Freddy.

[Freddy]

Just checked out the part numbers for a C1-C3 blank ignition key, and a later one used in a D1 blank ignition key. Different part numbers, and visually quite different looking keys. The earlier one is all metal, the later the head has a black plastic boarder.

If all that is different is the type of key used, explaining why the later part number isn't a superseded upgrade as the filler cap and helmet lock would be incompatible, then I'm very happy. Having a different key for the ignition and the gas cap is a very minor issue.

[Freddy]

Ended up buying a non genuine ignition switch. Usually always buy OEM but A$380 for an genuine ignition switch compared to $120 for an aftermarket one ..... that's a new rear tire difference. Maybe the aftermarket one won't last another 24 years, but probably neither will I.

[hugojose]

Freddy,

You may last another 24 years.....the problem is;..... planet Earth, may not, ...we are seeing to that.

Let us know how you do with the after market lock.

[Shedman]

Freddy, there are two types of aftermarket ignition switch readily available on ebay here in the UK, about £35 each. One has a resistor and one doesn't, my original C1 ignition switch has a resistor, easily visible if you pop off the bottom plastic cap that covers the electrics.

[Freddy]

Freddy, there are two types of aftermarket ignition switch readily available on ebay here in the UK, about £35 each. One has a resistor and one doesn't, my original C1 ignition switch has a resistor, easily visible if you pop off the bottom plastic cap that covers the electrics.

Hi Shedman,
Have any idea as to the purpose of the resistor?

[Shedman]

Freddy, there are two types of aftermarket ignition switch readily available on ebay here in the UK, about £35 each. One has a resistor and one doesn't, my original C1 ignition switch has a resistor, easily visible if you pop off the bottom plastic cap that covers the electrics.

Hi Shedman,
Have any idea as to the purpose of the resistor?

Sorry mate, not a clue but I do know that if you fit one without the resistor you will get all of the lights, the motor will turn over but the ignition will not produce a spark. Please don't ask me how I know this or I'll have to confess to buying the wrong bloody one It wasn't until after I bought it that I found out there were two types BTW, not that this matters, the 1988 GT750 shaftie has the type without the resistor

[Freddy]

Thanks for that. I'll make sure by testing the resistance of all the connections on the replacement v's the original genuine. I can still get 'on' position contact on the original by turning the key to 'park' then back to on. Discovered this just flicking the key around trying to get contact. It works 100% of the time coming back from 'park' yet zero times now from 'off'. Must be a 2 sides contact inside or something inside the switch. Anyhow, worth knowing I reckon just in case someone does experience an ignition key problem out in the middle of no-where.