15 Jan 2020, 17:46
15 Jan 2020, 18:17
16 Jan 2020, 03:17
16 Jan 2020, 09:00
Freddy wrote:The damper rod bolt was installed with semi-permanent thread locker in the factory, and should be reassembled that way. Oil leakage is taken care of by a copper washer that should be on the bolt.
While you have it dismantled, take the damper rod down to a fastener specialist supplier and get the size bolt that fits into the shape of the damper rod head. It is 26.6mm across the flats, so I suppose its a 27mm bolt. Then make up a T handle (decent size handle) from a bit of 10mm reo bar 600mm long and weld it onto the bolt. An engineering shop should do this for a few bucks if you don't own a welder.
Now you have essentially the correct tool. It will prove invaluable when you go to tension up the bolt with a torque wrench. I doubt the ratchet strap method will work to tighten it up. You may have already proved me wrong. The tapered broom stick method will work if you really wedge it down the damper rod throat. But still no where as good as the 'proper' tool.
Whatever you decide, if not already back together again, make up a tapered broomstick. Its still a useful tool,to assembly the forks as this is best done up side down. Wedge the damper rod (with top out spring) on the broom stick, feed it up through the inner tube, fit the oil lock (that plastic thing) and then feed the whole assembly up through the outer fork tube till it bottoms. Clamp the broom stick in a vice to hold the assembly (no vertical and upside down) while installing the bolt down from above.
16 Jan 2020, 09:03
16 Jan 2020, 09:30
Shedman wrote:Thanks for that Freddy, I haven't put them back together yet, that will be today's fun! Just one question.........what plastic thing???? No plastic thing came out of the forks, it was all metal.
27 Jan 2020, 15:12
30 Jan 2020, 21:54