Front sprocket 15T vs 16T

[ZR468]

Motorcycle fackles always sounds and looks simplier than what it actually is, until you do it once. Hum, may be I should take it to a professional and let them install the 16T sprocket. Will see first if I can round up a helper with experience.
Thanks for you guys tips and inputs.
Kenny

[hugojose]

..once you do it once, you acquire the "professional" know-how.....and the satisfaction of self sufficiency.

With the proper information (..the factory manual), and the right tools, it is easy. Most people don't want to invest on the right tools and make it harder on themselves. In my opinion, the cost of an electric impact gun, and torque wrench are an insignificant investment (negligible cost really, at least in the US is less than going to the 'professionals'), and you can use it on any other project, or maintenance on your car or anything else......I do. Don't know where you live, but here in the US, most of the 'professionals' will take your life savings in a hart beat, completely out of proportion with the effort made, or time spent.

.....sorry, Kenny, I apologize. Could not help voicing my opinion, but this job is quite minor...and straight forward with the right tools and factory manual....but at the end, of course, is up to you.

[ZR468]

Hugojose, your sentiment is the same as mine. You explain it very well. I often ask myself first "Why pay someone to do a job I can do myself?" If I don't have a good reason, then I'll roll up my sleve and get busy. I enjoy the self satisfaction when DIY job is done and knowing it is done right. I didn't know they have electric impact gun, I better check that out. I have an Dewalt 20V impact driver gun, may be it will work. https://www.amazon.ca/Dewalt-DCF885B-DC ... impact+gun
Anyways, I'll ponder on it. I know I can always try it, if I can't undo the 20mm nut, I'll button it up and go to the professionals.
Kenny

[hugojose]

Kenny,

If this bike sprocket is still factory, I seriously doubt that a cordless impact will be able against 74 ft-lb of torque. They are rather for lighter duty.....this is on the heavy duty side. Something like the link below will do it...that's the one I have and is capable of over 200 ft-lb.

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-Hea ... D%3D%0D%0A

If you use this also remember to use a true 6-point heavy socket....unbend also the washer on the nut first.

Like Richard experienced, I also tried a very long breaking bar, having somebody sitting on the bike, front wheel against a wall, and still could not make it budge. Then I simply bought me an electric impact gun and laughed myself silly when it took the nut out in 2 seconds.......it may have 1 second actually. The bike did not even shudder.

...I also know of people trying this who were successful with the breaking bar...but I never looked back owning the electric gun as I use in in my cars too....and it gives me a sense of power a as am inclined to do my own mechanic and electrical fixing or modifying..

[ZR468]

Hugojose, at 49.95 USD for an electric impact wrench, that is much more palatable than the ones I was looking at. Now I am leaning DIY. I have the factory maual, all I need is the tool. May not even need a helper. Food for thoughts.
Thanks for the suggestions.
Kenny

[Freddy]

Hugojose, at 49.95 USD for an electric impact wrench, that is much more palatable than the ones I was looking at. Now I am leaning DIY. I have the factory maual, all I need is the tool. May not even need a helper. Food for thoughts.
Thanks for the suggestions.
Kenny

If you are just starting out get a copy of the Haynes manual as well. Both are good, but deigned for different audiences. The Haynes is for the DIY'er and the factory obviously for a qualified mechanic. As such the Haynes is highly detailed and wordy, the is OEM brief, is easier to find critical information, but assumes a certain level of skill.

Use both at first as you'll get something out of each, and over time you'll probably find the OEM is the principal one you'll use. But initially it may be to 'brief' for someone just getting into this stuff.

[David Richard]

hi a friend of mine had the same problem with the nut ,he arranged with a garage to ride the bike down to them ,let them undue the nut with a air gun ,then just nip it up a smudge ride home job done ,retorquing is easy to sit on the bike it might take you 30 mins total including adjusting the chain ,be sure to bend the tab over a manual will guide you aswell this is easier than your horn give it ago david

[ZR468]

I have a Haynes Manual for another bike, so I am familiar with a lot of the DIY tips. I got the factory maual for the Zephyr, it certainly is a lot more concise. I spoke to a mechanic friend of mine, he is willing to lend me a 1/2" air impact gun, he thinks my home air compressor may be strong enough to undo 1 nut. I have a 3 gallon compressor, please see attached for the spec.
Do you think this compressor will do this job?
I mistakenly thought the socket for the nut was 20mm, but no, 20mm is the inside diameter for the nut, the socket size is 30mm according to my web search. Can anyone comfirm if 30mm and deep is the correct size? I need to buy the right ones.
Thank you everyone, you guys have been a big help.
Kenny

[hugojose]

Kenny, the nut is actually 27 mm outside diameter, and about 8 mm deep. What happens is the nut has two tiers of hex, the inside one is a shallow one, about 31 mm, for the washer to bend over to lock it. You want the outside 27 mm to loosen it as is the one with depth for a socket....at least that is the way on mine.

Don't take my word, nor try to imagine it. All you have to do is remove the shifter with a 10 mm wrench, take the bolt completely off as it sits on a groove on shifter shaft, and then the four 8 mm bolts on the cover. Remove the cover and you can measure it. It should not take more than 10 mins.....clean all the goo while you are at it.

[ZR468]

Hogojose, 27mm nut sounds more like it, much easier to find a socket for it. Thank you for your detail help. You guys make this forum rock.
Kenny