ZR750C no go

For all your mechanical queries, or for sharing your mechanical know-how. Also used for arguing about which oil to use...

ZR750C no go

Postby ZR468 » 05 Jan 2019, 22:15

Since my ride last week, I installed a new set of handlebar riser. I was going to road test it today. Guess what, the ZR won't start. It doesn't even make a sound. Feels like the kill switch is trun off, but it is not, it is on "run". I checked the fuses under the seat, they are all good. The battery is charged up with a trickle charger. When I turned the key to on, the neutral light and the fuel pressure light came on as normal. Kick stand is up, clutch is pulled in, the gear is in neutral, I can't figure out what is wrong.
Anyone can me to figure it out? Thank you in advance.
Kenny
User avatar
ZR468
 
Posts: 170
Joined: 04 Sep 2017, 14:51
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada

Re: ZR750C no go

Postby bunyip » 06 Jan 2019, 11:36

Good chance that when you changed the riser you have somehow disconnected or shorted some wiring. Are the risers higher now? maybe a connector has come out. It is easy to do up the clamping screws on the switch bodies and ground a wire. Maybe pop the headlight out and check all the connectors,
bunyip
 
Posts: 16
Joined: 04 Sep 2017, 11:26

Re: ZR750C no go

Postby hugojose » 06 Jan 2019, 14:28

As Bunyip said, last modification you made is suspect. Changing bars, of course, involves disturbing the bar switch boxes and connections.

To help out a bit this is how the starting power flows. From the main fuse, the White wire feeds the Ignition Switch (key) which passes power to the Brown wire, this goes to the Stop Switch and from there, a Red wire feeds the Starter Button and Ignition Coils.

When the Starter Button is pressed, the Red wire passes power to a Black/Red wire which goes to the Starter Relay in the fuse box, under the seat, from there powers goes to the Stater Coil (under left side cover) on a Yellow/Red wire. The Starter Coil passes power directly from the Battery to the Cranking motor. Black/Yellow wire is ground for everything.

Opening the bar switch boxes again to see if anything is disconnected might help. If nothing is obvious, as Bunyip suggested, the Headlamp shell is used as junction box for the connectors, and is a good point where to do some checking with a voltmeter if you know the color codes.
hugojose
 
Posts: 51
Joined: 05 Sep 2017, 01:43

Re: ZR750C no go

Postby ZR468 » 06 Jan 2019, 16:35

Thanks for the prompt suggestions. I am setting up the bike for a thorough examination this morning. Hope it is something simple to indentify.
Kenny
User avatar
ZR468
 
Posts: 170
Joined: 04 Sep 2017, 14:51
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada

Re: ZR750C no go

Postby ZR468 » 06 Jan 2019, 20:35

Took the gas tank off this morning and voilà, there it was. The handle bar control wires were pulled out of their sockets, both left and right side. I rerouted the wires and plugged them back together. Then zipped tied them to the fork so they don't rub against the gas tank. She started right away. Thank you for all your help. A happy ending.
Kenny
User avatar
ZR468
 
Posts: 170
Joined: 04 Sep 2017, 14:51
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada

Re: ZR750C no go

Postby Swampy » 07 Jan 2019, 12:17

ZR468 wrote:Took the gas tank off this morning and voilà, there it was. The handle bar control wires were pulled out of their sockets, both left and right side. I rerouted the wires and plugged them back together. Then zipped tied them to the fork so they don't rub against the gas tank. She started right away. Thank you for all your help. A happy ending.
Kenny



:D :D :D Now get out there :lol: :lol: :lol:
Swamps :)
Swampy
 
Posts: 174
Joined: 04 Sep 2017, 19:01


Return to Mechanical

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests

cron