What have you done today, Zephyr-wise?

[hugojose]

She's got a point. Things could always be worse.

I have a spare ignition lock, complete with the key, and still mounted on the top yoke. I bought it on ebay long time ago only because it was sold so cheap. It looks was sold with the yoke because they made it a #$%&*^%**& to remove from the yoke on purpose against theft.

.....anyway, playing with it can see when I turn it into lock, a small metal block pops out of the side bottom. If I push the block with my thumb, also rotates the key back to OFF. Yes I understand somebody tampered with it and best to replace it, but was wondering if you had tried that..helping it.from the bottom.

…….but of course, the lock has to be removed to try this.
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About the brake pads;

The inner pads are easy. The outer ones, you have to push the slide away from the pad until you barely can get one end out of the slide, then the other. Same goes with the new pads, the outer is harder to install. I always fiddle with them a little, but at the end it gets done.

Also, the pistons accumulate debris at the bottom, facing the wind. They don't have expanding boots. Is best clean that debris before pushing piston in to insert new thicker pads, otherwise, you may get a leak sooner than you want. The debris works against the piston seals.

[Shedman]

She's got a point. Things could always be worse.

I have a spare ignition lock, complete with the key, and still mounted on the top yoke. I bought it on ebay long time ago only because it was sold so cheap. It looks was sold with the yoke because they made it a #$%&*^%**& to remove from the yoke on purpose against theft.

.....anyway, playing with it can see when I turn it into lock, a small metal block pops out of the side bottom. If I push the block with my thumb, also rotates the key back to OFF. Yes I understand somebody tampered with it and best to replace it, but was wondering if you had tried that..helping it.from the bottom.

…….but of course, the lock has to be removed to try this.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
About the brake pads;

The inner pads are easy. The outer ones, you have to push the slide away from the pad until you barely can get one end out of the slide, then the other. Same goes with the new pads, the outer is harder to install. I always fiddle with them a little, but at the end it gets done.

Also, the pistons accumulate debris at the bottom, facing the wind. They don't have expanding boots. Is best clean that debris before pushing piston in to insert new thicker pads, otherwise, you may get a leak sooner than you want. The debris works against the piston seals.

Thanks hj, I've got the pads out, it was a case of lightly tapping the sliders further in with a small hammer. I couldn't believe what I found, it looks like some absolute genius tried to drill the piston out
The locking mechanism on the ignition switch will not push in at all, its like something inside the lock is blocking it, its not seized as there is slight movement when wiggled. According to the Haynes manual the ignition switch is bolted to the top yoke with security bolts that they recommend drilling off.

[hugojose]

Yes, you will need new pistons for those and seal kit......

The ignition lock attaches with four bolts to the Yoke. Two hex inside, and two security outside. Don't know if the lock you bought came with the Yoke, otherwise, you would have to drill out the two security bolts from the Yoke and use bolts on the new one

[Shedman]

Yes, you will need new pistons for those and seal kit......

The ignition lock attaches with four bolts to the Yoke. Two hex inside, and two security outside. Don't know if the lock you bought came with the Yoke, otherwise, you would have to drill out the two security bolts from the Yoke and use bolts on the new one

The lock I bought is brand new old stock, still in the box but it only fits with two bolts, the one that came off only fits to the yoke with two bolts, my bike is a 91 C1 750, I don't know if later bikes had four bolts fixing the lock to the yoke but mine definitely only has two fixing points. My lock, fortunately, was fixed with two Allen bolts that were easy to remove so I presume that these were later replacements.

[hugojose]

The one I have, which as mentioned is still attached to the yoke, has a plate welded in front just below the key drum, the plate bends 90 degrees and attaches to the bottom of the yoke plate with two hex bolts. The security bolts go in studs than extend farther down from the yoke.

.....although I am across the pond, in the colonies, my is also a 91 c1, and I just checked on it and it has the two hex bolts, in addition to the security bolts. They are visible with a flashlight turning the steering head.

Either the European bikes did not have the extra bolts, or the plate was removed when lock was detached from the yoke, however the two security bolts would be enough to hold it, thus I do not believe this presents any problem.

[Freddy]

Thanks hj, I've got the pads out, it was a case of lightly tapping the sliders further in with a small hammer. I couldn't believe what I found, it looks like some absolute genius tried to drill the piston out
The locking mechanism on the ignition switch will not push in at all, its like something inside the lock is blocking it, its not seized as there is slight movement when wiggled. According to the Haynes manual the ignition switch is bolted to the top yoke with security bolts that they recommend drilling off.

Something to perhaps be aware off. It may be obvious the bit with the holes is a separate part to the actual pistons. I believe these plugs are to stop heat transfer between the pad and piston.

While they come as part of genuine piston replacements, they may not be included in some aftermarket kits. Well they at least don't shown them in the picture of the kit parts.

[Shedman]

The one I have, which as mentioned is still attached to the yoke, has a plate welded in front just below the key drum, the plate bends 90 degrees and attaches to the bottom of the yoke plate with two hex bolts. The security bolts go in studs than extend farther down from the yoke.

.....although I am across the pond, in the colonies, my is also a 91 c1, and I just checked on it and it has the two hex bolts, in addition to the security bolts. They are visible with a flashlight turning the steering head.

Either the European bikes did not have the extra bolts, or the plate was removed when lock was detached from the yoke, however the two security bolts would be enough to hold it, thus I do not believe this presents any problem.

There is a seperate bracket that bolts to the yoke that the switch locates in, I think it is there to stop some thieving sod twisting the lock off, it is held on with two bolts but it isn't actually connected to the switch, well that is how it is on mine.

[Shedman]

Something to perhaps be aware off. It may be obvious the bit with the holes is a separate part to the actual pistons. I believe these plugs are to stop heat transfer between the pad and piston.

While they come as part of genuine piston replacements, they may not be included in some aftermarket kits. Well they at least don't shown them in the picture of the kit parts.

Yes, they are called piston insulators according to the dealers parts diagrams, as much as Its gonna hurt the pocket I'm gonna get original parts if I can, buy cheap, buy twice!
I'm gonna chuck the whole caliper in the ultrasonic cleaner after I remove everything that I can, clean as much crap as possible before I set to with compressed air on the pistons, if that don't move them it'll be going in the oven at gas mark six for half an hour then another blast of air. All of the latter will occur when the War Office has gone shopping of course!

[Shedman]

Just a thought! has anyone ever put brake pads in an ultrasonic cleaner? I haven't got any brake fluid on them or any other crap, they look fairly new but dirty. I've owned this bike for around four years but with one reason or another I've never put over 1k miles on it, it's always passed its MOT and I've ridden it when the opportunity has arisen. I've been fixing the previous owners bodged repairs whenever I come across them, I even bought a dead Zephyr with a mint standard exhaust just to swap the 4 into 1 that was on it when I bought the bike. I'm one of those strange people that like bikes exactly how they left the factory.

[Freddy]

Just a thought! has anyone ever put brake pads in an ultrasonic cleaner? I haven't got any brake fluid on them or any other crap, they look fairly new but dirty.

Why bother? Just give them a wipe clean, no one will ever see them.

Tip: Use quality rubber safe silicon grease to lube the pistons and seals when assembling. Brake fluid for assembly, being water soluble, will be completely washed away in the first time the road is wet.