91 550 custom restoration

[Jen-etc]

NEXT ISSUE
(More nervous laughter)

Worrying about my clutch.

So when I fitted the new clutch cable I wasn't convinced I hadn't done something weird with the clutch cable arm connector bit (technical term). It just didn't feel right to me, but I don't know what right should feel like so I ignored it.
FF to my mate coming over, and the clutch is playing up, like it's seized from standing but it does free up, baring in mind we're basing these opinions on it on a stand.

So today I'm doing chain and sprockets, and I notice that there's a slight leak from around the gear change linkage arm. Should that arm move?!! Every time it moves it leaks, but in my complete newbie ignorance, I can't see how it would change gear without moving?
I have managed to over fill it with oil I realised, would this cause it?

Argh it's all stressful.

Wouldn't be worth doing if it was easy, right?! (Yet more nervous laughter!)

[Fishrider]

You want your clutch cable to move freely. It should pull relatively easily with some tension. I think you are suppose to grease the ends of the inner cables on the OEM clutch cables. If its not your cable sticking, make damn well sure you have you gear clutch shaft set correctly and your clutch arm indexed properly. If all that is in place. Check your clutch springs and make sure they are all cleaned and oiled and make sure the clutch rod moves easily as well. Clean the clutch rod and the inside of the output shaft. Grease up the clutch rod stem with high temp grease.

If there is leakage from the gear change arm, your oil seal is probably bad. Unless...you had my problem which has a cracked engine case where the gear arm when into the engine. Unless the bike took a bad spill, that is unlikely to be the problem. There is always a small bit of side to side movement on the arm and it can wear down the oil seal. A very small amount of oil may not be an issue, but once it starts dripping, than it can gum up your sprocket and cover.

[Jen-etc]

Thanks for this. I drew the same conclusion looking at it, I think it's that little seal that's gone.

Annoying but doable.

Meanwhile I've gone backwards to go forwards. Started taking the wheels off to take for tyre fitting, and then my neighbour was able to help with welding the frame. So I've pulled all the plastic tray etc out for him to get to.

Now put the wheels back on to roll the bike to my neighbours for welding, but have removed the calipers for cleaning up and pad replacements, and removed the old chain and sprockets ready for the new ones to go back on when the tyres are done and wheels put back on.

If it wasn't for this leak that would have been most of my (planned) mechanical jobs done!

So it currently feels like I've gone backwards to go forwards, but it's all progress in a weird round about way.

[Richard]

Before any (electrical) welding is done, make sure all electronic components are disconnected (also from earth), disconnect/remove the battery and perhaps disconnect your new headlight cabling...

[Jen-etc]

Ok you had me worried then as the welding is already done, but I had only removed the battery, not disconnected anything else...

So far I've checked everything I knew worked before and it all seems fine! (Fingers crossed)

So with the welding done it means I can start fabricating all the back bits that need sorting.

I've put all the under tray back in place and started mocking up the back again. Looks fiddly but relatively simple. I'm really annoyed I don't have the complete seat lock mech at the moment as it looks like all the frame brackets are now there, so for now I'm going to make some simple screw brackets and then in time I'll source the missing parts and restore the original locking seat function.

I had a nightmare with the handlebar grips, something that should be so simple!
So thought I could simply put the grips over the bar end weights and hide them but I was wrong. I didn't realise that there is a hole in the handlebar for the choke control unit bit to locate into. I spent far longer than I care to admit trying to work out why every time I tried to tighten the unit there was a pivot point in the middle and it wouldn't close up. When I clocked the hole and seated it correctly there's a bar weight sized gap between the grip and the controls. Fail.
Oh well if it's ok for MOT I'll leave it for now. I can reach all the controls etc just fine it's just ugly.
The throttle side either didn't have the same hole, or I completely messed it up...?! Either way that's all fine! Haha
With time fast running out I've shelved the idea of bar end indicators until it's on the road as it's a nice to have not need to have. When I get to that I can sort out all the grip/weight issues then.

I've also got the tyres fitted; sticky Bridgestone BT46s. I've only heard good things so looking forward to trying them out.

The wheels were more corroded than I realised, but I've managed to clean them up fairly well. Adding it to my list of "winter jobs" to restore them.

The discs and calipers are off now for a bit of attention too and some new pads before they go back on.
Found a few annoying things like the previously mentioned oil leak, and two of the three chain guard screws have had it (one rounded, one sheared)
All these niggly things add up time wise though!

[Jen-etc]

Made a grim discovery today.

Gearchange shaft sleeve has sheared. That'd explain the excessive play in the shaft movement and I'm guessing the ultimate cause of the failed seal/gasket around the shaft.

Off to sweet talk my welder neighbour again to see if he can fix it for me.

It took 3 hours to get the bloomin' cover off too, Inc having to drill out a screw that would not budge no matter what was thrown at it.

Not in the best of moods today.

[bunyip]

Had to repair this bit on another engine. Several welding attempts that did not work. In the end we contacted Kawasaki Japan who sent a couple of filler rods that worked fantastic. Apparently the alloy has a high magnesium content. That was a long time ago and no I don't have the rod butt. So when you talk to your welder a filler rod with high magnesium might be better if available. Also can I suggest a jig to hold the bit in place while welding, just a little bit out can make smooth movement hard. Because of my multiple attempts I had to drill out the existing hole, insert a bronze bush then ream to fit.
A long time ago and still in my head, guess I must hold a grudge
You can also buy an outrigger shaft support, could be a good investment.
Everything is fixable if you have enough cash

[Jen-etc]

That sounds.... Bad.

I am really pretty gutted about it tbh.

My planned road trip is looking less and less likely.

[Stereordinary]

Sorry to hear the news. I can’t offer any advice, but to say that a replacement part might not be that hard to find. It’s just getting it swapped in that sounds difficult, to me anyway.

[Richard]

O no, that really s*cks! I can almost feel your frustration

Hope you will find a decent sollution and soon...