The Zephyr Zone

but the intake Sound very loud

Thanks 750R that's what I wanted i love induction roar!

looking forward to firing it up now, still a long way off though. next job is head bearings and fork seals, re-build front end etc

cheers eddie

Have fun getting the bottom head bearing race out !
I bent and shaped an old pry bar. Its perfect for smacking them out,

Steering head bearings, piece of cake with this tool .......

I bent and shaped an old pry bar. Its perfect for smacking them out,

No need for special tools this time Freddy!, I did the same as Bigzeph above but with an old tyre lever bent and ground to shape it works a treat, the soaring temperature in the shed may have helped as the frame was amazingly warm, they only needed a light tap and out they popped .

I remember the last time I did them, the old trick of putting the outer head races in the freezer really worked, so fingers crossed it will work again

cheers eddie

bit more of a progress report, I've done the head bearings and putting them in the freezer did help!, I made up a tool for pulling them in out of a threaded bar and assorted washers and used the old inner bearings to keep it all square
with those done I've fitted the yokes, headlamp bracket, ignition barrel. I started to strip the forks but got stuck with the bottom Allen screw and after trying everything I could think off to try and hold the inner fork from spinning I finally gave in and have ordered the special tool, so will have to come back to them later in the meantime I have started on the clocks to make a good set out of the two s/hand sets I've got.

I was going to spray one of the fuel gauge surrounds black just to see how it would look, but on rubbing it down it produced a brushed alloy look which looks quite nice I think? not sure the photo will show the effect (the rubbed down one is on the right)
On looking at my original speedo remains the mileage drum is undamaged and looks like a press fit in the speedo housing, so should be easy to fit into the "new" clocks so I can keep the original correct mileage for the bike

Eddie wrote:I started to strip the forks but got stuck with the bottom Allen screw and after trying everything I could think off to try and hold the inner fork from spinning I finally gave in and have ordered the special tool, so will have to come back to them later

The bolt was fitted in the factory with 'locktite', and should be on reassembly. An impact gun, and a wooden broom handle shaped to a spear point going down inside the fork tube and wedged firmly down into the inner 'throat' of the damper rod usually works.

I've pulled mine apart enough to have warranted making up a big T handle out of 10 mm 'reo' bar with the appropriate size bolt welded on the end. The large hex head of the bolt fits inside the 12 pointed shape of the damper rod head. Even with everything clamped in the vice, the grip of the locktite on the bolt is strong enough to twist the reo bar tool if I try and undo the bolt with a breaker bar. The secret is still the impact gun.

My air impact gun is a pretty decent twin hammer job, and even on its maximum setting it still takes quite a few decent 'wacks' to break the bolt free.

Freddy I wish I had read your post before picking up my special tool, as it turned out to be useless!!! it's a long hex bar with a tapered square cone on the end which unfortunately isn't big enough and doesn't grip anything at least on these forks.

On the plus side I had managed to "crack" the Loctite seal and did get the Allen bolt to turn a few times before it all started spinning the other day. My special tool did manage to hold it enough that I could get one bolt out and I can now see what you mean about needing a bolt welded to a rod as a holding tool, I'm sure I can knock something up now I can see what's going on (I'll post some pics later on) we'll get there in the end

....and my special tool will get some use as a fire poker!!!!

Here's a pic of the top of the damper rod , you can see the tool I bought below it which just sits in the round section of the d /rod and can't grip it. The hexagon shaped bit which looks like an upturned socket isn't very deep but I think a large nut welded onto a long rod should work fine as a makeshift holding tool.
I hope this helps anyone else attempting a fork re-build as searching the internet I couldn't find anything resembling the tool needed and even the factory workshop manual shows a cone type tool?

eddie

A 17mm allen key socket on a long extension fits a treat.

I knocked this up at work yesterday because we're not very busy!! Luckily I work with agricultural machinery so we had lots of large nuts and bolts kicking around, the bolt head is 30mm, welded it to a thick rod and a smaller nut on the other end, it works a treat!