Hi everybody!!

[Silverkap]

Wow Freddy thanks for the very technical and detailed explanation!!!!

I will have to study now

I understood and I will leave the eccentric at the beginning like they are. I will try to do the things step by step after this first list of changes I asked the store to do. Let's see how the position and the bike is going to be.

Thanks again!

[Freddy]

Wow Freddy thanks for the very technical and detailed explanation!!!!

I will have to study now

I understood and I will leave the eccentric at the beginning like they are. I will try to do the things step by step after this first list of changes I asked the store to do. Let's see how the position and the bike is going to be.

Thanks again!

No problem. Don't let the length of my posts give the illusion of complexity. Nothing in there is complex or difficult.

Fit a new original size tyre (if it is the case a lower profile has been fitted, not sure where that came from)
Set rider sag. A zillion articles and videos on the internet how to do this. Dead easy on the more important back, tad harder in the front as the length of an internal spacer needs to be changed.
Consider some decent correctly sprung rear shocks at some point in the future. No such thing as a good cheap shock.

Don't hesitate if you ever want some

[750R]

fitting the original Tire Size is not possible on that rear Wheel. For me it semmst this are Aftermarket-Wheels made by WiWo and they use 5,5"x17" rear instead of the original 4,5"x17". in front the have used 3,5"x17" instead of the 3,0"x18". the lowering results of the smaller Wheel in front, on the rear side it's the tire.
As you know - original Spoke Wheels are rare - aftermarket Spoke wheels are even more rare an have a higher Price.
Using original Spoke rims from the 1100 is not possible beacuse of the Front brake. The B-Model has other Calipers - ond the normal Wheels will ruin the Style of the Bike.
and original ist not always the best - just my opinion, everyone should use what is best for him/herself.
i prefer the WiWo-Size

[Silverkap]

I totally agree...these wheels are the main reason I bought this bike...plus the exhaust I have to say, which is in part a bit handmade but looks to me wonderful!

Same with the painting.

So I will try now with the new rear shocks, seat and handlebar and let's see if I will need other changes.

I can't wait to enjoy this bike. The handling is not gonna be really important, I own another bike, which I love too, a KTM. This Kawasaki has to be something to satisfy my nostalgic side

[Freddy]

and original ist not always the best - just my opinion, everyone should use what is best for him/herself.
i prefer the WiWo-Size

True about original not always being best, the original shocks and tires, well at least on the 750 for example. But a bike that drags easily or excessively in corners is to me way more than just a minor nuisance. To me its a potentially life threatening flaw.

You get caught out in a tight downhill corner (heavily compressing the suspension) where the road unexpectedly turns to a steep negative camber. Not a made up example because this is exactly what happens on one of the popular 'public race tracks' we ride regularly. Or the unexpected dip right in the apex of a fast corner, the 'blind' corner you've never ridden before than catches you out when it unexpectedly radically tightens up (first right THEN left again, ironically officially name changed a number of years back to Lemming Corner). Just to prove I'm not making this up ....



All three examples are not just made up, three popular crash places where guys, especially cruiser riders going at just a modest speed come unstuck when the pegs or floorboards start dragging. IF they remain composed enough to not completely stand the bike up at the sound of scraping, they are locked onto a radius that takes them into the guard rain, or worse, into the oncoming traffic.

Looks are one thing, but IMO a safe bike is way more important.

[750R]

Looks are one thing, but IMO a safe bike is way more important.

YES! we agree on that Point! Look is not everything!

and for this Reason i postet the Advice with the eccentric - this is often used on the 1100 in Germany. and normally there are no Problems with the ChainGuard on the Swingarm - maybe we are to fat down here another possible way is to use rhe Rear shocks of the ZRX 1100/1200 - hese are about 2,5 cm longer (eye-to-eye) than the stock ones.
the smaller front rim is not really to compensate

optimiziong the suspension is difficult bot woth every minute and penny ! @ Freddy i Think we are on the same line of optimizing our Zeph's

[Freddy]

Looks are one thing, but IMO a safe bike is way more important.

YES! we agree on that Point! Look is not everything!

and for this Reason i postet the Advice with the eccentric - this is often used on the 1100 in Germany. and normally there are no Problems with the ChainGuard on the Swingarm - maybe we are to fat down here another possible way is to use rhe Rear shocks of the ZRX 1100/1200 - hese are about 2,5 cm longer (eye-to-eye) than the stock ones.
the smaller front rim is not really to compensate

optimiziong the suspension is difficult bot woth every minute and penny ! @ Freddy i Think we are on the same line of optimizing our Zeph's

Agreed.

Here's a rear suspension tip I just discovered on the 750, maybe relevant to the 1100. The shocks don't run dead parallel, creating some unnecessary 'stiction'. Not a lot, but something easily gotten rid off. And any reduction in stiction is a better suspension.

The width of the bottom shock brackets on the swingarm of a 750 are a slightly different dimension to the top 'posts' attached to the frame, about 3-4mm on each side. This causes the shocks to taper in ever so slightly at the top. While the rubber bushings in the shock eyes easily accommodate this taper, it still creates a slight sideways pressure on the shock. By looking at the bottom rubber mounted eye you could see the shock didn't sit dead 'straight' on the rubber eyelet.

Fitted with the taper I was getting 9mm of stiction i.e. the difference between allow the bike to rise up v's fall down to the free sag position (just weight of bike). With this slight taper removed by simply sticking some 3mm thick gal washers (from the hardware store) on the top shock mounting posts before fitting the shocks, stiction was instantly reduced to 4mm.

So 5mm of stiction removed from the rear suspension for a cost of 60 cents.

The way I found to best see the alignment is remove each shock and refit with the bottom mounts but the top free of its post. Then just pivot the shock forward to see how it fits against the top post in its 'natural' position. In my case both rear shocks fell against the top post with a 3-4 mm gap away from the frame. The 3mm gal washer fitted to each post before fitting the top mount removes that taper.

[HeavenEleven]

Ciao silverkap

Keep the high bars, rotate them forward slightly.

Buy some longer rear shocks, ZRX1100/1200 KYBs are longer.

Definitely have the seat repadded at the front, so it's the same height along it's length.

These mods will make a big difference

[Silverkap]

Soon I will show you guys new pics of the bike after the last changes! Step by step the riding position is getting better!

[Silverkap]

So...after a lot of money this is the result. The Kawasaki dealer in south Munich had check the carburetors and all the mechanics parts, they put on a new handlebar by LSL, new Wilbers rear shocks (Ohlins were too expensive and for my point of view meaningless for a Zephyr...), check the fork and turned the eccentrics.
Now I ride the bike way better, it is still not perfect but now the position starts being good and that's why I cannot wait to get the "new" seat and the foot pegs I bought to do the last step.

I find the Zephyr really enjoyable! The engine has a great torque and the sound with the exhausts the bike has is wonderful! the breaks are a bit old style but it is not a sport bike so they are enough. I found the look so great that some times I just stand in front of it like a kid!