Richard wrote:Maybe this is the answer or at least it seems not to be unique to my bike, did a search on this forum and found this from Freddy (obviously). I still wonder where the oil goes though...
oil-level-after-refreshing-it.JPG
@Freddy, did you ever find the reason for this?
Nope. All I can do is assume is something like when you completely drain the oil it allows oil to more freely flow out of places like in the oil cooler. The lines being below the oil level where they attach to the sump. Being below the oil offsets gravity (I'm making this up if not obvious). When we drain all the oil out these also drain better. Fill it up to the top oil line, start it up and it refills these passages which don't drain back again, hence why it never returns back to full. Obviously a change of oil filter will account for a considerable drop. But the same thing happens even without changing the filter.
I change my oil every 5000 kilometres with a filter change every second change.
Regarding the tires, no doubt you're most likely aware of this, but just in case..... disregard the recommended tyre pressures that may be in the owners manual, workshop manual, or listed on tire manufacturers websites. These are the original pressures for the bias ply tires that the bike originally came from the factory.
Radial tyres run higher pressures. I find 32psi front 36psi rear to be pretty good. Anything below 32 front and the sides scrub out excessively.
P.S. Where tyre manufactures used to make pressure recommendation that differed from the original factory numbers, that seems to be a think of the past, I assume for legal reasons. The nonsense of this can be found by looking at pressures on some of the tyre manufacturers sites for a ZR750 Zephyr and essential the same bike (from a tyre perspective) the ZR7. You'll find quite different pressures listed for the identical tyre. I assume the ZR7 came originally with radial tyres.
Be confident to try different pressures (obviously within a reasonable range). There is no one 'correct'. It's all a compromise between load, comfort, and tyre life.
All I can do is assume is something like when you completely drain the oil it allows oil to more freely flow out of places like in the oil cooler. The lines being below the oil level where they attach to the sump. Being below the oil offsets gravity (I'm making this up if not obvious).
That would be a perfect explanation Freddy even if it's just a guess
Freddy wrote:Regarding the tires, no doubt you're most likely aware of this, but just in case..... disregard the recommended tyre pressures that may be in the owners manual, workshop manual, or listed on tire manufacturers websites. These are the original pressures for the bias ply tires that the bike originally came from the factory.
Radial tyres run higher pressures. I find 32psi front 36psi rear to be pretty good. Anything below 32 front and the sides scrub out excessively.
P.S. Where tyre manufactures used to make pressure recommendation that differed from the original factory numbers, that seems to be a think of the past, I assume for legal reasons. The nonsense of this can be found by looking at pressures on some of the tyre manufacturers sites for a ZR750 Zephyr and essential the same bike (from a tyre perspective) the ZR7. You'll find quite different pressures listed for the identical tyre. I assume the ZR7 came originally with radial tyres.
Be confident to try different pressures (obviously within a reasonable range). There is no one 'correct'. It's all a compromise between load, comfort, and tyre life.
I will have a word with the local supplier but thanks for the warning!
So I received a bottle of carter oil yesterday and topped my carter of up to the high level mark. It took the whole bottle (1 liter) so by now I added almost 6 liter in total. For sure the diff can't be only related to the cooler circuit. Crossing my fingers nothing wrong is going on...
I also ordered some acoustic demping material (Altena brand name) for the db-killer and o-boy that makes a huge difference, it does make a lot less noise but still can make some if you rev the engine
But next time I need to wear some gloves as there is fiber glass within and my hands are still itching
Richard wrote:by now I added almost 6 liter in total. For sure the diff can't be only related to the cooler circuit. Crossing my fingers nothing wrong is going on...
[/attachment]
6 liters can't be right. Don't take offence at this possibly dumb question (its the only possibility I can think of) .... you are checking the oil level with the bike on the center stand, and not on the side stand?
Finally we had a day without rain and even some sunshine
So I sprayed the rear caliper nicely red with 2K paint meant to be used on calipers, in dutch we have this saying "mooi rood is niet lelijk" it translates into something like "beautiful red ain't ugly"
I also cleaned the other rear brake parts and I ordered some refurbishment parts. I have to wait two days for the paint to become rock solid so hopefully I can rebuild it next Wednesday.
As the paint was hardened sooner than expected so I rebuild the rear brake this evening and boy what a difference again in breaking, that is after a few test runs. The bike is about ready now so all that's left is making some larger test runs and do a inspection afterwards, I will also focus on the oil but for now it seems fine.
