@hugojose Your right, terminology is important. I do mean to say the engine will not start or fire. As far as I know, neither setting on my petcock is prime. On and Res. On either setting I need to create a vacuum for the petcock to open. I did take apart the fuel line and blew out the fuel filter. It didn't seem clogged, but after that, fuel did flow into the bowls. However, I still can't get the engine to fire. As far as I can tell there is no fuel getting to any of the cylinders. As I said before, the plugs are dry when I check them. I can get my number 1 cylinder to fire a couple times if a spray some fuel directly into the carb, but other than that I cannot get fuel to the spark.
@Jen-etc The floats seemed fine when I pulled apart the carbs this last time. I did not check height. I had done all that before I gave the bike to the mechanics, and I assume (probably wrongly) that they checked all that as well. Again, the bike was running until I took the carbs off. However, I could not get it into a proper idle. Now nothing.
I now have fuel in the bowls but still can't get the engine to start. The starter cranks and cranks, but that is all. I try the choke in different positions with no effect. Frustrating.
Help with start up after removing carbs
Re: Help with start up after removing carbs
OKAY! Got it started. I think the last bit was the idle screw was turned way in. I thought I had adjusted it better, but I guess not. I turned the screw all the back so it wasn't touching the throttle plate and the bike started. I was then able to adjust it from there and get the bike into idle. New it was something dumb and simple. Always user error.
Re: Help with start up after removing carbs
Fantastic news! Well done getting to the bottom of it, hopefully that's the last of it. It's always something simple and easily overlooked.
I finally managed to get my carbs seated tonight. Just got to run the new fuel lines and will attempt a start up. Baring all the hiccups you've had in mind in case I come across the same! Keeping everything crossed it's all fine, but this bit is making me very nervous!
I finally managed to get my carbs seated tonight. Just got to run the new fuel lines and will attempt a start up. Baring all the hiccups you've had in mind in case I come across the same! Keeping everything crossed it's all fine, but this bit is making me very nervous!
Re: Help with start up after removing carbs
So, I had it idling for a bit. I even stopped and starting it a few times with no issue. I even got it into first gear for a moment. Then as it warmed up it started to sputter and then stopped. It will fire at full choke, just barely and it won't stay running. Some of the things I read was rectifier, stator, coils. IDK. I think the rectifier is new. I have not checked voltage at stator or resistance on coils. I am just speculating here.
Re: Help with start up after removing carbs
Good luck! i hope yours goes better than mine.Jen-etc wrote:Fantastic news! Well done getting to the bottom of it, hopefully that's the last of it. It's always something simple and easily overlooked.
I finally managed to get my carbs seated tonight. Just got to run the new fuel lines and will attempt a start up. Baring all the hiccups you've had in mind in case I come across the same! Keeping everything crossed it's all fine, but this bit is making me very nervous!
Re: Help with start up after removing carbs
With a multimeter. You start by reading voltage at battery terminals when running. It should be above 13VDC on idle and go somewhat above 14VDC when rev,d. That would suggest electrics are decent. A stock battery does not produce more than about 12.6VDC.....everything above is produced by the bike electric system. The system is really a 14VDC system, and battery is just to crank and to provide a low cushion or base line.
I wonder if you have a factory manual which explain how to test stator, or coil resistances if you have not done so. But still looks like carburators are not sorted.
It is possible with a clear u-tube verify where the carb fuel levels are, with carbs on bike. This is cold wet verification of proper float heights. They should be about the seam top of the bowls (factory manual is more specific). The fuel level affect mix, if they are not even would make idle more unstable. Also what about carb synchronization? Which is just making sure all the butterflies are about even....this mostly affects at idle or low speed.
I wonder if you have a factory manual which explain how to test stator, or coil resistances if you have not done so. But still looks like carburators are not sorted.
It is possible with a clear u-tube verify where the carb fuel levels are, with carbs on bike. This is cold wet verification of proper float heights. They should be about the seam top of the bowls (factory manual is more specific). The fuel level affect mix, if they are not even would make idle more unstable. Also what about carb synchronization? Which is just making sure all the butterflies are about even....this mostly affects at idle or low speed.
Re: Help with start up after removing carbs
I tried starting it today with no luck. I can get to fire a bit with the spray method again which suggest to me that you are right. The carb fuel issue is not solved.hugojose wrote:With a multimeter. You start by reading voltage at battery terminals when running. It should be above 13VDC on idle and go somewhat above 14VDC when rev,d. That would suggest electrics are decent. A stock battery does not produce more than about 12.6VDC.....everything above is produced by the bike electric system. The system is really a 14VDC system, and battery is just to crank and to provide a low cushion or base line.
I wonder if you have a factory manual which explain how to test stator, or coil resistances if you have not done so. But still looks like carburators are not sorted.
It is possible with a clear u-tube verify where the carb fuel levels are, with carbs on bike. This is cold wet verification of proper float heights. They should be about the seam top of the bowls (factory manual is more specific). The fuel level affect mix, if they are not even would make idle more unstable. Also what about carb synchronization? Which is just making sure all the butterflies are about even....this mostly affects at idle or low speed.
Re: Help with start up after removing carbs
Definitely sounds like somethings stopping the fuel getting through.
How far through the system can you trace fuel to? Is it definitely getting through the fuel tap ok and as far as the carb?
How far through the system can you trace fuel to? Is it definitely getting through the fuel tap ok and as far as the carb?
Re: Help with start up after removing carbs
I just wonder, did you clean the jets (from water)?
Re: Help with start up after removing carbs
Your petcock has to have Prime. Otherwise is not stock. Any vacuum petcok has to have means to bypass the vacuum. If you don't have it. GET ONE ..if you are planning keeping this bike and given it proper maintenance.
This is very basic. Without it makes carb troubleshooting/maintenance/cold starting extremely difficult. I also run a clear in-line filter between the petcock and carbs. When is very cold, I always get the petcock in Prime to replenish the gas may have evaporated in the bowls. I can see through the clear filter fuel flowing. I can also see it stopping when reaches level, indicating the float and needles valves are doing their job.
I would check you bowl fuel levels, but the petcock needs to be in Prime setting. It does not take much, a clear 4 mm or 1/8" clear tube from any hardware store. Connect it to the drain, and hold it against the carb body, you can use tape. Put the petcock in Prime, open the drain plug,....you may have to wiggle and tap the tube to get rid of air, ...but eventually it would show on the tube what you level is. This would show for sure you are getting fuel in the bowls, at the proper levels, and even and all four.
....if this all right, then move on to something else like jets, spark, or air. If is not right then you will have to adjust float level. Get a proper petcock if it doesn't have Prime. it will pay for itself if you keep the bike.
This is very basic. Without it makes carb troubleshooting/maintenance/cold starting extremely difficult. I also run a clear in-line filter between the petcock and carbs. When is very cold, I always get the petcock in Prime to replenish the gas may have evaporated in the bowls. I can see through the clear filter fuel flowing. I can also see it stopping when reaches level, indicating the float and needles valves are doing their job.
I would check you bowl fuel levels, but the petcock needs to be in Prime setting. It does not take much, a clear 4 mm or 1/8" clear tube from any hardware store. Connect it to the drain, and hold it against the carb body, you can use tape. Put the petcock in Prime, open the drain plug,....you may have to wiggle and tap the tube to get rid of air, ...but eventually it would show on the tube what you level is. This would show for sure you are getting fuel in the bowls, at the proper levels, and even and all four.
....if this all right, then move on to something else like jets, spark, or air. If is not right then you will have to adjust float level. Get a proper petcock if it doesn't have Prime. it will pay for itself if you keep the bike.