The Zephyr Zone

With the makeshift ring compressors the head and barrels went on with not too much effort.

After a discussion with you-know-who (this is getting embarrassing) I chose to use genuine K gaskets on the barrel base and cylinder head interfaces. I joke a bit, but it's invaluable to have the advice of someone who has been there before you. I was a bit reluctant to spend the extra £50 or so after spending £60 on a full gasket set from Athena, but after having seen the low quality stuff in the kit and the genuine gaskets side by side it was a no-brainer.

Not a great photo but head and barrels on...

Torquing down the head, I had a major ballache. I got all 12 studs torqued down and reset the torque wrench for the two 8mm bolts in the cam tunnel (Haynes says torque these last). The rear one tightened down fine, the front one never got to the click, just snapped...

After a 15 minute meltdown over a cuppa, I went back out to the garage, removed the head, removed the offending bolt, and torqued everything back together again. No, I didn't fit another new head gasket... I decided it will be fine. It may not be, but I'll take my chances. Two new bolts on order from big K.

The Haynes bible says these bolts should be replaced every three times the head is refitted. I didn't think it had ever been off before so reused them. They are about £4 each... I'd suggest you buy new ones!

This next shot is a glimpse of the future. While I’m waiting for parts to arrive I have mocked up a few bits to see how it will all look. It’s very much cheating as there is no clutch or cams in the motor and the exhaust doesn’t actually fit where it's shown (longer shocks than standard mean that the swingarm is fouling the bracket).

You'll have noticed that I've painted the covers satin black instead of polishing them. I kind of like it, and am thinking about also painting the breather cover and cam cover end caps that would normally be polished. I'll make a decision later.

As I've hinted before I'm not a big fan of shiny and have pretty much removed all the shiny bits. I may have to do something with that polished stainless exhaust, or may keep it for some contrast.

Everything from this point on can be changed. If I wanted a black exhaust or polished engine covers or whatever, there's not much that I can't change over a weekend.

Anyway, this is starting to look like a motorcycle...

Thanx for sharing.Coming along well

doing a good job there , that looks mint. was thinking of getting a home zink plater myself to try help fend off Blighty's weather and salt !!

Nice work Stu
Nice report as well

Thanks, Guys.

I've been busy again last night and this morning. I had a parcel of bits arrive yesterday including my two 8mm head bolts (now in and torqued with no more snapping) and some missing engine bolts (you may recall I had some issues getting them out). Unfortunately they were black, so the ones that show got stripped and replated to match the others.

With the head bolts in, I could put the cams in. The timing marks are a bit iffy; the exhaust cam mark is either a bit above or a bit below level with the head, and where the Haynes diagram clearly shows one pin above and one below the mark, mine line up perfectly. Much messing to get it in the right place, but I'm convinced it's now right.

Next was the clutch. My clutch basket rubbers had died allowing about 3-4mm of movement between the gear and the basket. I ordered some viton rubbers from a guy who goes by "Turbosteve" on the 750 Turbo forum. The basket costs about £300 from big K, and that wasn't going to happen. I paid $45 plus shipping for the new inserts. A friend drilled out the rivets, tapped the holes and countersunk the back plate. All put back together with high tensile countersunk screws and loctite. Looked like this just before I buttoned it up again. All tight now with no play.

Clutch then went back in with no problems and buttoned the cam cover up. I would have got the clutch cover on, but having fitted two new needle roller bearings; I find I've lost the new seal for the operating shaft... is it just me that has stuff disappear?

Gratuitous pic...

hi it looks good ,can you tell me how many miles on your c1 ,I'm thinking when do the clutch rubbers let go ,I have 2 d1 one with 5 k and one with 20 k thanks david

Mine has 27000 miles on the Speedo... No clue if it's genuine!

I don't think the deterioration of rubber bits has anything to do with mileage... 20 years in oil will kill it even if the bike never moves. Rubber goes hard and shrinks.