The Zephyr Zone

Hi folks,
I am the proud owner of a Zephyr 1100 '93 since 2002.
Recently had to get a new CDI unit and now I get a lovely strong spark and it runs and rides as well as ever, but....
Somehow the battery is not being charged and (after a full trickle charge) multimeter tests show a consistant 12v regardless of engine revs.
So I need a new Regulator Rectifier yes?
However, even with the workshop manual (!!) I can't work out what the RR looks like or even where it is!
Ebay is showing me different parts that both claim to be the right RR for the bike.
So can anyone point me to a website that sells them or at least show me a picture of the RR and where it is on the bike?!
Cheers!
Tim

Could be either the stator (generator) or the regulator (rectifier). On a 750 the regulator is located on top of the frame under the fuel tank. On an 1100 parts listing the regulator shows as a relatively small (compared to the large one used in a 750) unit looking about the size of a typical car relay. Doesn't provide any guidance where it is located but as its on the page called 'chassis electrical equipment', my guess is under the fuel tank or side covers.

The OEM part number is 210611003, cost 20 Euro.

Is the battery new, so you can rule it out?

I don't have a 1100, but glancing at the microfiches, the R/R looks to be in two pieces in the Alternator (generator) compartment, and is not cheap(OEM); those are in $USD. ...oh god, how complicated it looks compared to the 750/550.............No offense, we are all trying to help, but I just don't figure an alternator rectifier/regulator costing in the 20's USD or Euros. Even a 50 cents diode is a crude rectifier, but does not mean is the main one for the vehicle. These things also generate considerable heat, thus the bulk and fins.

The 1100 engine is related to the ZX1100 liquid cooled ones, not the air cooled Zephyrs.....and the 1100 has the alternator behind the cylinder barrels like the ZX.. in the Generator microfiche.

21061 RECTIFIER
21061-1056
$238.85


21066 REGULATOR-VOLTAGE
21066-1062
$507.89

The electric schematics of the ZR1100 shows only two wires coming out of the Alternator pack, (not three alternating phases) as in already rectified to DC and regulated.

....I would not rule out other causes, like the schematics shows battery being charged through the starting solenoid. Is that passing through???

Also, if you disconnected the alternator connector, and hooked to battery a good battery pack to help, start the bike and measure the output of the Alternator connector......rev it.....that should tell you if problem is coming from inside.

Did you replace your cdi with a carmo unit

Hey all, thanks for the info

Battery is under 2 years old.
Yes I bought a Carmo CDI.

Yes I was really hoping the RR wasn't inside the alternator (I'm in England) but yep it looks like it is.
Weird how the 750 has a chunky finned job and the 1100 is completely different.
As I am defintely not the guy to open up the alternator, I am getting close to just calling my friendly local motorcycle electrics guy and paying him to sort it!

Thanks for the part number, i'll see if I can find it...

Cheers gents

Talltim.

Whereas the 750/550 Zephyrs had true older KZ/Z air cooled engines dating back to the late '70s, the 1100 was "backengineered" into air cooling from the newer Kawi 90's liquid cooled engines. The Zephyr's were supposed to be 'retros', but the original Z900/1000/1100 air cooled engine was not deemed modern enough for the '90s on the biggest bike.

The typical alternator test is to disconnect it from the bike, run the bike on battery power, and read the alternator output. Because I don't know if your battery is good, or charged enough, I suggested helping it with a battery pack so the bike will run with no alternator OK. At this point, because the alternator output is already regulated and rectified, you should read above 14VDC when revved. If not, then you had a problem inside, maybe regulator, maybe alternator. Am sure if you had factory manual would tell you something similar. If your read above 14VDC they you have a problem somewhere else.

Because this alternator is by itself, don't look at it as the 'alternator' but alternator compartment where there are some other components. The prices mentioned is from OEM supplier. Does not mean there are not much lower prices from non-OEM suppliers, or even a whole used alternator may be less expensive.....if here is where the problem lies.

Thanks for the info and help,
Sun is shining here and the road is calling!
Tim