1100 B1 Newby

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Re: 1100 B1 Newby

Postby Freddy » 12 Mar 2021, 05:54

DaveZ1 wrote:Why not convert the rims to tubeless, you'll never have that problem again. Many advantages. A flat tyre on the road becomes just a minor inconvenience rather than a major drama. A nail in the tyre isn't likely to cause an immediate deflation, may just loose pressure VERY slowly. Unspung weight is also considerably reduced, those tubes aren't light.

I'm assuming tubeless tyres are available for whatever rim size you have used.


Is there much involved in converting spoked wheels to tubeless?[/quote]

It's actually VERY easy, that was certainly the case using the kit I purchased. The tubeless hold pressure better than tubes. But the main reason was so that a nail in the rear tyre in some remote place would be no big deal, which it is with a tube. A tubless repair kit fits nicely up inside the 'duck bill' tail so its carried all the time. Only had to use it once, but that was at home as I was getting the bike out to go for a ride. Felt hard to push, looked down and a flat rear tyre due to a nail picked up previous ride. Fixed in 5 minutes.

When I was researching the subject, the only problems I could find seemed to all relate to poor workmanship on the part of the person doing the job. In my case there was a reasonable amount of rust on the inside of the rim from water penetration through the spoke nipples. I sand blasted it completely clean and then gave it two coats of marine grade two part epoxy primer before applying the sealing tapes.
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Re: 1100 B1 Newby

Postby DaveZ1 » 12 Mar 2021, 07:15

Thanks for that Freddy I read your posting with interest and will certainly be giving that kit a try at my next tyre change.
My only reservation would be if you had to do any work involving the spokes. Replacing a rusted / broken one or perhaps taking up a little wheel alignment/buckle. Not likely very often I know but assume that you would have to re-do the process?
Cheers Dave
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Re: 1100 B1 Newby

Postby DaveZ1 » 16 Mar 2021, 22:32

Top end now fully stripped and the sump removed and all bits cleaned up in the ultrasonic tank and bead blast cabinet.
I think it’s safe to say that it’s the first time this motor has been pulled down judging by the sludge in the sump pan!
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Re: 1100 B1 Newby

Postby Freddy » 17 Mar 2021, 05:09

DaveZ1 wrote:Thanks for that Freddy I read your posting with interest and will certainly be giving that kit a try at my next tyre change.
My only reservation would be if you had to do any work involving the spokes. Replacing a rusted / broken one or perhaps taking up a little wheel alignment/buckle. Not likely very often I know but assume that you would have to re-do the process?
Cheers Dave


When was the last time you have to replace a broken spoke on your Zephyr? Or even tighten one for that matter. If a rim was buckled by hitting a massive pothole, redoing the sealing is probably going to be the least of your worries.

Actually, if you had to replace a spoke, all you need to do is cut that section out, replace the spoke, and use some of the excess tape your kept from the job to replace it overlapping both cut ends by an inch of so. Same as how you finish the end of the tape when you get back to the start in the original install.

I hesitated for quite a while doing it because of concerns about safety and the integrity of the job etc. I was able to satisfy myself after a lot of research that the only people who seemed to have leak problems were those who did budget jobs or cowboys who would stuff any task up. If done in a professional manner using the product I used, I guarantee the integrity and safety of the process. I'm not kidding when I say my rims now hold pressure better than when I had tubes.

Regarding safety, as I discovered a flat tyre from a nail one day while pushing the bike out the garage after doing the conversion, I'd say the converted to tubeless are definitely safer than with tubes. Had the tube still been in the tyre it would have immediately deflated at whatever speed I'd been travelling at the time. With the tube removed the tyre inside lining just resealed around the nail, and the tyre very slowly deflated over the next couple days.

P.S. If you using rubber valve caps, give them the flick and use metal caps with the rubber seal in them. Even a perfect valve leaks an ever so small amount.
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Re: 1100 B1 Newby

Postby DaveZ1 » 11 Apr 2021, 19:41

Thought I had better get some of the polishing done while I’m waiting for the valve shims to arrive.
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Re: 1100 B1 Newby

Postby Stereordinary » 12 Apr 2021, 15:56

Lookin’ good!
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Re: 1100 B1 Newby

Postby DaveZ1 » 22 Apr 2021, 20:36

Another few bits of the puzzle put together ready for the engine to go back into the frame this weekend and begin the rebuild.
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Re: 1100 B1 Newby

Postby DaveZ1 » 22 Apr 2021, 20:40

Calipers rebuilt with brake shoes and re-zinced fasteners.
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Re: 1100 B1 Newby

Postby DaveZ1 » 25 Apr 2021, 20:35

Engine back in the frame today. Always feels like a milestone reached.
Polished one of the fork legs as well today so one to go, then...... should have a rolling chassis by close of play tomorrow :D
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Re: 1100 B1 Newby

Postby DaveZ1 » 01 May 2021, 21:32

Good progress made in the last week or so, she’s now back on her wheels and looking like a bike again!
Wiring harness sorted and refitted and hooked up the battery and everything checked out fine.
Next job fit the chain and get the chain case fitted, bleed the clutch and brakes then I will be looking at carbs and exhausts....... getting close now. :D
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