The Zephyr Zone

Hi guys. I've been hibernating! The Zephyr hasn't moved in weeks while I've been faffing around watching crap TV, walking the dog and teaching myself to play the piano (which could be going better!). In the meantime the garage has got cold, dark and even less inviting.

Since I started the Zephyr, I've had a 1050 Tiger stolen, bought an old 600 Bandit, sorted it out, ridden it a bit, decided I wanted something nicer, sold it and bought a Triumph Trident, sorted it out, decided I liked it but it was so uncomfortable I was never going to ride it, and sold it again. I'm now back to just the ZR.

Had a day off work today, and finally dragged my arse out into the garage. Put the heater on and went back indoors for an hour. First job out there was fix my pc/old hifi music system (after swapping out the amp and the DAC, I found the dodgy RCA cable... ), then with music back in both speakers, I put up two new double strip lights. With warmth, music and lots more light, the place is a bit more inviting.

This afternoon I finally did some work on the Zephyr. Started off by rewiring the ignition pickup (replacing an abortion of cheap crimp connectors and insulating tape with new wire, solder connections and shrink sleeving) and refitting it, followed by reassembling and refitting the clutch cover and alternator covers.

It's moving again...

Hibernating indeed! Haven't touched mine for a month I now realize. My garage reached those low temperatures as well, not very inviting to do some work...

Good luck with the heater (and the garage work)

Stu wrote:It's moving again...

And about time ..... stop being slack (cold garage, what sort of excuse is that, your supposed to be a rough tough biker).

We need regular progress reports to keep us entertained ......

Freddy wrote:

Stu wrote:It's moving again...

And about time ..... stop being slack (cold garage, what sort of excuse is that, your supposed to be a rough tough biker).

We need regular progress reports to keep us entertained ......

He says from Sydney, Australia, in December...

It's about -2C out there this morning!

I am working on getting a proper Butane powered space heater in there which should make life a bit more toasty. I'm fed up with my "winter projects" only starting in March!

Finally got round to doing something on the Zephyr again today... pulled the carbs apart for a good clean.

First impression; they've never been opened... no messed up screws, nothing messed with. Hoses are 26 years old and brittle!

As carbs go, they're not bad. Just a lot of fine rusty particles in the float bowls... the tank was rusty and I guess this was all that could get through the filter screens on the tap. Anyway all cleaned up and ready to go back together tomorrow. I've bought rebuild kits, but doesn't look like I really need more than the O ring on the air screw and the bowl gaskets; everything's in perfect condition. Bit of wear on the slides, but more polished than worn out.

I'll take a chance and refit the original float valves rather than take a chance on the new ones - haven't taken them out of the packet yet, but they look like they may be slightly longer?

Stu wrote:I'll take a chance and refit the original float valves rather than take a chance on the new ones - haven't taken them out of the packet yet, but they look like they may be slightly longer?

Good decision. I've been following this forum for as long as I've owned the bike which must be around 7 years, and have lost count of the number of threads along the lines of 'fitted aftermarket float valves now can't stop the bike flooding'.

If not already, set the float heights using the fuel level method rather than measuring the float heights. Method is well described in the genuine workshop manual. It's WAY more accurate.

But seeing I've suggested it, not something to be done if that new Butane heater is running If your not super careful you end up with a lot of fuel everywhere.

Finished the carbs today. In the end I fitted the new float valves. Comparing the two in situ, the old ones were difficult to set up as their internal springs had got a bit soggy. The new ones were identical, as far as I could see but had a firmer spring action and held the floats more consistently in the same place.

I didn't buy the cheapest kits out there, I chased down some Japanese Tourmax kits, so hopefully they're as good as OE. If not I've kept the old ones.

Float heights set at the richer end of tolerance, as close to 15.5mm as I could get them. I also used the spare pilot screw washers to shim the needles up a tad. They fit perfectly on the needles! Very minor changes from stock, but hopefully it'll give enough extra fuel to compensate for my loud pipe, at least in the midrange. Intake side is pretty much all stock as are main jets at 92/88/88/92. As a starting point it's as good as anything.

Haven't attempted the fuel level check yet. I know it makes sense, but... I hate playing with fuel!

Also cleaned up the air box, rear mudguard bits etc. to start reassembling the back end. With that lot on, there won't seem like too much left to do.

I may need to buy some new air box rubbers... haven't priced them yet! Is there supposed to be a seal between the filter box and the still air box? They sort of clip together but it doesn't look reliably airtight? I did put new foam on the white intake damper thing. Trying to get it as right as possible.

Stu wrote:Is there supposed to be a seal between the filter box and the still air box? They sort of clip together but it doesn't look reliably airtight? I did put new foam on the white intake damper thing. Trying to get it as right as possible.

Yes, a large o-ring that seals the join, p/n 920551137. About 5 euro. New airbox and manifold rubbers aren't cheap, but worth every penny when you pull the carbies in or out.

Tips .......

Remove the two 'position' blocks on the side of the airbox to allow it to move backward an additional 1/2". Makes a big difference to the ease of getting the carbies in. Then just stick them back in place as the last job. I just use 'instant' CA type glue.

Separate and reseal with black silicone the two halves of the airbox. The rubber seal between the two halves will have 'gone to god' years ago, and nothing worse that oil (pushed up into the box because of the breather pipe to be burnt) dripping from the airbox onto the chain cover. I plan to two part epoxy the two halves together next time I have the airbox out (as there is no need to every separate it) because I'm sick of it dripping oil and I haven't been able to get a permanent seal using other methods.

While you have the airbox out, make sure the ends of the 4 spring clamps that secure the airbox rubbers to the carbies are completely 'locked' together and can't possibly separate as you roll the springs forward on the rubbers into position. The spring ends are often incomplete locked circles. PITA if they unclip as you roll those springs forward as about the final task of refitting the carbies.

Freddy wrote:
Yes, a large o-ring that seals the join, p/n 920551137. About 5 euro. New airbox and manifold rubbers aren't cheap, but worth every penny when you pull the carbies in or out.

Thanks... went and looked on the parts diagram after I asked and found it... note to self, look first, ask dumb questions later... Decided I needed new rubbers when I couldn't join the airbox to the carbs on the bench...

Remove the two 'position' blocks on the side of the airbox to allow it to move backward an additional 1/2". Makes a big difference to the ease of getting the carbies in. Then just stick them back in place as the last job. I just use 'instant' CA type glue.

I think they're long gone! I have a sheet of nice self-adhesive, high density foam and will make some up later.

Separate and reseal with black silicone the two halves of the airbox. The rubber seal between the two halves will have 'gone to god' years ago, and nothing worse that oil (pushed up into the box because of the breather pipe to be burnt) dripping from the airbox onto the chain cover. I plan to two part epoxy the two halves together next time I have the airbox out (as there is no need to every separate it) because I'm sick of it dripping oil and I haven't been able to get a permanent seal using other methods.

I was thinking about that, so thanks for the advice. On the other hand, if someone is buying 4 "trumpets" (about £70), it's not a huge jump to replacing the whole box, which comes with new trumpets, new seal, and all the other bits, for £125 ish... I probably won't 'cus I'm cheap...

While you have the airbox out, make sure the ends of the 4 spring clamps that secure the airbox rubbers to the carbies are completely 'locked' together and can't possibly separate as you roll the springs forward on the rubbers into position. The spring ends are often incomplete locked circles. PITA if they unclip as you roll those springs forward as about the final task of refitting the carbies.

Nasty little things... but mine seem in good order. I will check them though. Thanks for the tips.

Bit more done today.

Fitted the rear mudguard, tail light and number plate. Fitted a new gold DID chain on the new sprockets and rivetted it. Fitted the chainguard.

Rear end now looking a lot more together.